This area has a similar flair to Ko Kret or Amphawa and gives one an impression of how life must have been in times gone by, when Bangkok still was the Venice of the East; a peaceful canal with old wooden houses, lots of green and plenty of delicious local food. The small neighborhood where this atmosphere is preserved is called Khlong Bang Luang and is located in Thonburi.
It is just a short strip of houses really, surrounded by temples on both ends and an extended neighborhood where shops and chinese shrines are located. There are small artisan shops where handicrafts are sold along the way, massage places, cafes and restaurants but at the heart of its all is Baan Silapin (บ้านศิลปิน), also known as the Artist’s house.
The house itself is about 200 years old and is a beautiful two story structure. The ground floor has a small cafe where you can get coffee or thai tea as well as small snack (if you lucky you can get some freshly made Miang!), there is a small shop where souvenirs and stationery is sold, and on the backside is a small white chedi in front of which a thai puppet show is held at 2pm in the afternoon (except Wednesdays). In the first floor, which is opens up to the courtyard and the chedi, some painting and photographies are exhibited.
We were lucky enough to see one of the puppet show which was held for a private audience in the morning. The show as surprisingly entertaining and funny and very well acted. The whole group seems quite in demand and also travels often abroad so if you want to come here specifically to see the puppet show then we would recommend to call beforehand.
If you continue along the canal and cross a small footbridge you will reach Wat Kampaeng. There is a small pier for the canalboats there and plenty of street eateries, as well as some rice plants overshadowed by a scarecrow. Behind that are there Ubosot, the central one being the newest with some nice painting on the wall, and the one the side looking quite ancient. Its a nice and peaceful place and sit on the pier and feed the fish and just relax for a while.
Baan Silapin (the Artist’s house)
315 Wat Tong Salangam, Phet Kasem 28, Thanon Phet Kasem, Pa Si Charoen, Bangkok, Thailand 10160
open daily from (approx. 09:00-18:00
puppet shows are daily (except Wednesday at 14:00
phone: +66 (0)2 868 5279, 66 (0)89 125 3949
How to get there:
Get a Taxi to Charan Sanitwong Soi 3 and go to the end of this street (dead end), from there you just walk ahead and reach the canal in less than 3 minutes.
another option is to take a boat from the Chao Phraya River but fares depend on your barraging skills here. The usual klongtours do not stop at Baan Silapin but just pass by.
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